in the MT Supermarket Asian shopping center, is an offshoot of the well-known branch in Richardson, which many Dallasites swear by religiously. In Austin it's known as the main competitor of Din Ho Chinese BBQ. Arguments over which is better can start a gastronomic ruckus; we aren't here to make that comparison but to report on a series of meals eaten recently at First Chinese.

The style of cooking found here is Cantonese (from the Guangzhou region, in Guangdong Province), a cuisine known for the wide diversity of ingredients used. First Chinese covers all of the basic stalwarts found on every Chinese menu in America, but branching out to more diverse selections generally yields the best results.

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A Richardson outpost for authentic Chinese barbecue, it draws several high-profile chefs on their nights off. It won’t win any awards for atmosphere, and the service can be brusque. But the crispy skinned duck served atop steamed rice is delicious and, at $5.95, less than one glass of wine in their restaurants. Here, you bring your own booze.

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